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slow food Baltimore

October/November 2002  Daily Wines

Reds Whites

Condado de Haza 1997

Region: Ribera del Douro

Varietal: Tinto Fino/Tempranillo

Price: about $24

This region is giving Rioja a serious run for it's money in the yummy red wine department. Take notice, there are still bargains to be had here and this is one of them. This bottle is a great example of the dexterity of some Spanish winemakers. It's big and bold but still caresses your tongue as you sip it. Hints of spice and leather with a little coffee and red berry on the finish. It's lengthy and substantial and very drinkable. Good steak wine or game. Pour yourself a glass and Olé!

Willowglen Sparkling Brut

Region: Australia

Varietal: Chardonnay

Cost: about $8

New favorite inexpensive bubbly. Had a bad day, forget the Calgon bubbles, these will "take you away" just fine. Good structure, tight and creamy on the palate. Perfect on it’s own or a nice match for Indian takeout.

 

Nugan Family Estates 2000 Shiraz

Region: South Eastern Australia

Varietal: Shiraz

Cost: about $10

Lovely Shiraz. Meaty but not overwhelmingly tannic. Ripe berry and spicy finish. Lush, warm and very good.

Schezuan pepper crusted pork tenderloin.

 

Francis Coppola Bianco 00

Region: Napa, California

Varietal: Chardonnay, Riesling, Muscat and Malvasia

Price: about $9

This wine is a great find for weekend entertaining. First reason: it's good. Second, the different flavors and complexity you get from the blend of four varietals make it a perfect food wine. Hints of autumn fruit and spice with Normand cream makes me think this would sing with Pumpkin ravioli in cream sauce.

 

Viu Manent 1999 Malbec

Region: Colchagua Valley, Chile

Varietal: Malbec

Price: about $8

Malbec is a varietal that used to be more common in Bordeaux, it now is becoming more and more a popular grape for South American winemakers to work with. This wine is rich and meaty but velvety on the tongue. Hint's of winter thyme and coffee with a red stone fruit. A wine to warm the cockles of your heart on a blustery falls day. Beef stew, French cheeses a nice loaf of crusty bread.

 

Cornaro Pinot Grigio 2001

Region: Veneto, Italy

Varietal: Pinot Grigio

Cost: about $7

Simple, crisp, pleasant white wine. Perfect to finish off the last of the season’s tomatoes or to accompany a simple meal of grilled cheese and vegetable soup.

 

 

Domaine Jean Marc Bouley 1999 Burgundy Hautes Cotes de Beaune

Region: Burgundy, France

Varietal: Pinot Noir

Cost: about $11

Why bother with flabby, overly oaked Pinot noir from elsewhere when you can enjoy what everyone is trying to replicate. Pinot Noir from Burgundy can be affordable and this bottle is a perfect example of that. No Nuits St George but quite pleasing on the palate none the less. Cherry, faint smoke and mushroom. Delightful with roasted chicken and new potatoes.

 

Domaine de Montmarin Viogner 2000

Region: Southern France

Varietal: Viogner

Cost: about $8

People who like rich and lush wines, should try Viogner. Although this reasonable bottle is nothing like the liquid love the Condrieu appelation produces. A lot of the similarities are here – pineapple, honey and figs on the nose. Very bright and balanced on the palate. Beautiful with cheese, fresh apples and very good bread.

 

La Coudraie Tourainne 2000

Region: Loire, France

Varietal: Gamay

Cost: about $8

Gamay is a grape most often used to make "Nouveau Beaujolais", a mostly terrible marketing ploy by the French to sell more mediocre Beaujolais. However, there is fantastic Beaujolais to be had and very pleasant Loire Gamay to be enjoyed. Case in point, this affordable but ever so yummy bottling from the land of story book castles and endless gardens. Gamay is perfect for simple, fall appropriate, vegetable dishes. In fact, its often the wine of choice for country luncheons in La France.

SEGUMO 1997 CA’ Del Vispo

Region: Tuscany, Italy

Varietal: Chardonnay, Vernnaccia, Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Grigio

Cost: about $20

The 1997 vintage was spectacular and that comes through in this highly viscous, lush and aromatic white from the land better known for sock you between the eye reds. A beautiful wine, that I personally would prefer to sip rather than go through the headache of pairing with wine. But, if you must, Salmon bake in cream and tarragon. La Dolce Vita in a glass.

 

 

Augey Bordeaux 2000

Region: Bordeaux, France

Varietal: Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignion

Cost: about $8

Medium in body and very easy to sip with or without food. Lots’of red fruit on the nose and some spice and fresh grass in the background. Make it easy on yourself, meatloaf smothered in mushrooms. Perfect.

 
 

Penfolds Rawson’s Retreat 2001

Region: Southeastern, Australia

Varietal: Chardonnay

Cost: about $9

Full bodied and viscous. A lot of oak, but sometimes you just are in the mood for that sort of thing. Notes of Meyer lemon, thyme and some melon on the nose with a little fig, butter and Asian pear on the palate. Strangely enough, worked with pesto pasta that was admittedly heavier on the cheese and pinenuts than it was on the herbs.

 

Pepperwood Grove 2000 Syrah

Region: California

Varietal: Primarily Syrah with 18% other red varietals

Cost: about $8

Great drinking value here folks. Full, rich, juicy and relatively multidimensional for a wine at this price point. Game, leather, smoke and chocolate are the high points. Perfect with that game a hunter friend might have graced you with.

 

Mount Riley Sauvignon Blanc 2001

Region: Marlborough, New Zealand

Varietal: Sauvignon Blanc

Cost: about $12

In little time, New Zealand has really moved to the forefront with Sauvignon Blanc. They bring out a zingy, fruit forward quality that few other winemakers in the world have managed to do. Orange, quince, quava with brisk acidity and a mellow pleasing finish on the palate. Perfect for light lunches of quiche, Caesar salad and antipasto.

 

Bouchaine Rose Pinot Noir 2001

Region: Carneros, CA

Varietal: Pinot Noir

Cost: about $13

Starting to think about what to serve on Turkey day? How about this beauty. Full, bright lively fruit. Notes of strawberries, raspberries, apples and spring flowers. Perfect with the sweet potato this and that, whatever you wish to pair with the thankful bird.

 

Spy Valley Sauvignon Blanc 2001

Region: Marlborough, New Zealand

Varietal: Sauvignon Blanc

Cost: about $13

Zingy, bright and fresh on the palate. Perfect easy luncheon or dinner wine. Lot’s of herbs and Meyer lemon on the nose. Great with garlic grilled cheese sandwiches and potato and leek soup.

 

 

Basignani Piccolo 2000

Region: Made in Maryland from Maryland and Lodi CA fruit

Varietal: Primarily Cabernet with Zinfandel

Cost: about $10

Basignani winery is one example that the Maryland winemakers should continue in their quest to earn some respect. Soft but meaty tannins, forward fruit and great balance. Perfect pizza, burger or roast chicken wine. Drink now and encourage the local economy while you are at!

 

Chehalem Pinot Gris 2000

Region: Willamette Valley, Oregon

Varietal: Pinot Gris

Price: about $14

On the palate and nose, rich, mineral with notes of Granny smith, figs and earth. Warm and round white wine, perfect with pork tenderloin stuffed with apples.

 

Bouchard Aine & Fils 2000

Region: Burgundy, France

Varietal: Pinot Noir

Price: about $11

Pinot Noir is great Turkey Day wine. The white wine drinkers can usually be coersed to have a glass and it pacifies the red wine lovers too. At $11 you can't expect complexity but what you do get is bright, slightly smoked cherry fruit, some earthy mushroom in the background that finishes with a brisk finish.