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Travel by the Glass


Volume 1 number 11


St Urban Hof Winery

A Delicate Balance of Tradition and Innovation

Coming Shortly, Food and Wine Matching for the Holidays

St Urbans Hof Winery

Sankt Urban Hof Winery

A Delicate Balance of Tradition and Innovation

 

I first met Nik Weiss at the Grand European Tasting held annually in New York City last March of the year 2000. The French, Italian and Spanish areas swarming with people I had chosen to find refuge in the quieter German section of the tasting. Admittedly, at the time, I knew nothing about German wine, upon getting to Nik's table I gave him the dubious challenge of teaching me all he could about German wine in 15 minutes. Where other's would have balked at the challenge, he jumped in and those highly educational fifteen minutes began my love affair with German wine. I tell people this story about Nik whenever I talk about his wines as I feel it is truly reflective of Sankt Urbans Hofs quality and dedication to German wines.

Today he is the General Manager of an estate that encompasses 87 acres and sells wines all over the world, the fruits of his labor will soon be available in the US. Nik is a talented winemaker, the quality of his wine speaks for itself and people are listening. Recently, the VDP welcomed Sankt Urbans-Hof into its prestigious association of German Wine Estates and the wines continue to gather awards and favorable press everywhere. This is no easy feat for a winery coming from a town long synonymous with bulk wine. Having been there myself on two occasions and tasted wine from various area producers I am happy to say this is a bad myth and it will eventually be dispelled as Sankt Urban Hof's and other area producers wines become better known.

None the less it will be a continuing challenge among many other's that Nik, who just turned 29 this fall, will have to tackle. One of the biggest hurdles he faces is the general perception that German wine is not user friendly or versatile, that the quality can be mediocre and the reality that many people just don't drink wines from Germany. Ask him why this is so and prepare yourself for a sermon and passionate discourse on why you should drink German wines: In a very detailed and convincing way he will tell you and sum up with, " they are the finest wines in the world!"

Three generations prior the winery was founded by his grandfather, Nicolas Weis in 1947. Mr. Weis loved wine and wanted to make it even though he was a shoemaker by trade. He none the less took his new venture extremely seriously founding in 1947 the first private grapevine nursery in Germany after the war. Through his efforts, hard work and dedication at the winery and nursery he gained the prestigious title of "Oekonomierat" or Chancellor of Agriculture in 1969. After he was followed by his son, Hermann who grew the estate's holdings and even started an innovative business exporting in 1976 Riesling root stocks of the Weis clone (21b) to Canada. Unfortunately after many problems with local authorities regarding quarantine laws and separate licensing concerns, Hermann decided to sell in 1992 the Canadian portion of his business. His daughter Anna, who had come over from Germany to supervise Sales for her father's company stayed behind, marrying Tom Pennachetti a partner of the highly acclaimed Cave Springs winery located in Ontario's Niagara region.

Nik, the son of Hermann came on board officially after completing his degree in viticulture and enology at Geisenheim Germany, one of the best wine education institutions in the world. The youngest Weis has always been involved and fascinated with the workings of the winery. "I knew from very early on, that I wanted to be a wine maker - that I should be a wine maker". From the conviction in his voice, there's no doubt about it.

 

Nik's enthusiasm has gained him much visibility in Germany where he is often called upon to speak on Mosel wines or the German Wine industry in general. It has gained him criticism though, as well as praise, with some of his contemporaries feeling he is too visible, showy and not fitting with the traditional image of a German winemaker and perhaps hindering rather than helping the success of German wine.

Bah humbug I say, if German wine isn't successful it's because people still conjure images of Hansel and Grethel, leiderhosen and Bavaria when they think of traditional German wine. This is exactly the kind of thing that helps propagate the myth that German wine isn't sexy but conservative, cerebral and boring. As the German Wine Bureau says "Drink again!" The tides are changing where German wine is concerned and much of this needs to be attributed to aggressive and market minded winemakers such as Nik. This being said, as enthusiastic and a good Ambassador as he can be, even he struggles to find a balance between innovation and tradition. He agrees "you can take the German out of Germany but you can't take Germany out of the German".

Germany needs more winemaker's like Nik if it's wines are ever going to be as popular worldwide as some other European wines. In the meantime, we can enjoy the affordability , outstanding quality and value that Sankt Urban Hof has to offer. At least until the day the when the world will wake up and realize that we enlightened German wine enthusiasts are onto something

 

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