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slow food Baltimore

August/September 2002  Daily Wines

Reds Whites

Forest Glen Oak Barrel Selection 2000 Shiraz

Region: CA

Varietal: Shiraz

Cost: about $8

Forest Glen provides great value for the money. Always, ripe, fleshy and fruit forward – their wines are perfect summer entertaining choices. This is lush and pepper laden with forward, ripe plum and blackberry overtones. Hints of allspice in the finish. Burgers or spicy Italian sausages on sourdough rolls. Ah… the joys of summer.

Tommasi Le Gosse Pinot Grigio 2000

Region: Valdadige, Italy

Varietal: Pinot Grigio

Cost: about $8

This is a wine region that definitely produces many a stellar white. Last years vintage was great, this year's is another perfect example. Pinot Grigio with layers of flavor and backbone. Hailing from the "Etschtaler" as the German Italians call it, region in Italy it's perfect drinking for the 98°days we've been having. A peach, citrus and almost floral nose that bursts on your palate with the most refreshing sonata of tastes. Poached salmon with dill and creme fraiche, pickled shrimp. Brava!

Ch Valcombe Nimes Cuvee Prestige 2000

Region: Provence, France

Varietal: Grenache, Syrah and Mourvedre

Cost: about $14

This is a purely delicious elixir. Perfect for those last days of summer grilling and chilling. Beautiful garnet color and smooth velvet on the palate. Notes of brambleberry, leather and some smoke. Tannins that are present but not obtrusive. Magnifique!

Lolonis Fume Blanc 2000

Region: Redwood Valley, CA

Varietal: Sauvignon Blanc

Cost: about $11

Absolutely delicious summer wine made by a family estate. It has acidity but flows across the palate and tickles your tastebuds. Charming! Notes of Meyer lemon, heirloom pears and granny smith apple. An added bonus is that it’s organic. Was heavenly with a grilled seafood brochette and orzo and chickpea salad

 

Concha y Toro Marques Cabernet 1999

Region: Maipo Valley,Chile

Varietal: Cabernet Sauvignon

Cost: about $14

This wine shows the value you can still find (who knows for how long) in Chile. Granted it's produced by a behemoth of wineries however, winemaker Marcelo Papa has really tried to create something special. By Jove, he's done it! A big red with woodsy, cedar notes that blend into chocolate, blackcurrants and leather. Call me crazy but it was wonderful with chocolate gingerbread cake.

 

Quinta de Azevedo Vinho Verde

Region: Portugal

Varietal: Blend of white grapes

Cost: about $7

Charming, bright and distinctive. The idyllic white to open one's palate with or serve with grilled calamari or shrimp delicately seasoned with garlic, parsley and a fruity olive oil. Could also work with a main course of citrus flavored swordfish or red snapper.

Bogle Petite Sirah 2000

Region: Napa, CA

Varietal: Petite Sirah

Cost: about $12

Petite Sirah has nothing to do with its French counterpart and noble grape - Syrah. The only thing these two share is a similar sounding name and the fact that they are both red, actually Petit Sirah true to form is often more of a deep blackberry color. Rich and meaty with a pepper finish and a hint of cedar. Perfect black and blue burger wine. Fire up the grill!

Ferrari Carano Sauvignon Blanc 2000

Region: Sonoma, CA

Varietal: Sauvignon Blanc

Cost: about $14

The three G's are here: grapefruit, gooseberry and faint grass. Delicious SB ever the more so for a light touch of oak bringing out fig, honey and melon notes that bring out a richness in the wine perfectly balancing the acidity. Very versatile, absolutely wonderful with heirloom tomato cobbler with a Parmesan cheese crust.

Finca Luzon Merlot Jumilla 2001

Region: Jumilla, Spain

Varietal: Merlot, Monastrell (Mourvedre)

Cost: about $10

The Jumilla wine-growing region encompasses a large area in the province of Murcia and Albacete in south-eastern Spain.

Merlot from Espana? Think outside of the box on this one. Good forward chocolate, raspberry and plums. Full and velvety, quite pleasing actually. Bisteca a la plancha (grilled steak) y patatas bravas (french fries). Bon provecho!(Enjoy!)

Robert Mondavi Moscato D'Oro

Region: Napa, CA

Varietal: Moscatto

Cost: about $15

Dessert wines are one of the hedonistic pleasures of the wine world few dare to indulge in. This moscato is lush, fruity with notes of honeyed pear, almond and quince. Makes a perfect pairing with pear and frangipani tart at the end of a sumptuous meal.

Louis Bernard Cotes du Rhone Village 2000

Region: Rhone, France

Varietal: Syrah, mourvedre, and a powerhouse of other regional red grapes

Cost: about $12

A bright, fresh and red from the region often known for heavier wines. Notes of tobacco, earth, mineral and bright fruit. Delightful.

An easy and satisfying red to pair with spicy sausages, a tossed salad and some crusty bread.

Vichon Chardonnay Sieur d'Arques 2001

Region: Southern France

Varietal: Chardonnay

Cost: about $8

This is good, quaffable, quite enjoyable for the price Chardonnay. Classic pear and granny apple flavor profile with notes of nutmeg and butter. Great with your steamed shrimp or lobster (hold the Old Bay please) and lots of drawn butter. Easy drinking

Forest Glen Merlot 2001

Region: Sonoma, CA

Varietal: Merlot

Cost: about $6

Merlot that's easy, uncomplicated and good for quaffing or cooking. Some oak, but not to the point to annoy the palate. Chocolate, warm berry compote and good tannin make this exceptionally pleasant to sip on its on. If you must, add a pizza and dinner is served.

 

La Vielle Ferme Blanc 1999

Region: Rhone, France

Varietal: Roussane,Grenache Blanc,Ugni Blanc

Cost: about $8

Available in a larger bottle as well ($12), one of the best values on the shelf these days. Crisp, fruity and oh so pleasing after a hard day at work.

Great white to entertain with, cook with, offer to guests before or during a simple summer meal.

Canaletto Primitivo 2000

Region: Puglia, Italy

Varietal: Primitivo

Cost: about $8

O.K. I could start a cerebral dissertation on if Primitivo really is the ancestor of the great Zinfandel (of California fame) but I’ll save you the brainwork…. Is it? Possibly, is this important to know to enjoy this wine? No way… White pepper on the nose, fruit forward with hints of chocolate, brambleberry and leather. Yummy, easy drinking – order pizza and you’ve got a meal.

 

 

Davilla Albarino 2001

Region: Rias Baixas, Spain

Varietal: Albarino

Cost: about $12

Wonderful, aromatic, peachy overtones white from the Northwestern Spain. Refreshing and the perfect match for pasta with shrimp, feta and orange zest.

Chateau Valcombes Nimes Cuvee Prestige 2000

Region: Provence, France

Varietal: Syrah, Mourvedre and Grenache

Cost: about $14

Nimes is a beautiful place, charming and the food is fabulous. Stands to reason the people make beautiful wine. Dark, enticing and ruby colored. Rich velvet, it fills the tongue with flavors of late summer berries, smoke and a hint of spice. Gorgeous on it’s own, paired with crusty bread, pate and some cheese absolutely magnifique!

Canaletto Pinot Grigio

Region: Veneto, Italy

Varietal: Pinot Grigio

Cost: about $8

Pinot Grigio – did you know it’s quickly becoming America’s favorite white? That’s a welcome change from Chardonary… no? Why is Pinot Grigio so poplular? Well, it’s light, refreshing, extremely quaffable and affordable. Any more questions? Grab a light seafood salad, roasted pepper bruschetta – make it easy and this wine will make it easy going.

 

Greg Norman Shiraz 1999

Region: Australia

Varietal: Shiraz

Cost: about $12

This guy has a great handicap when it comes to golf but no handicap when it comes to picking wine makers to make great wine at reasonable prices. Chris Hatcher has done a fine job here. Myriad of various berries cross your palate and waft up to your nose inviting you to take another sip. Good tannins and enough complexity to pair with a posh entrée such as a pepper crusted grilled Prime rib.

HENRI PERRUSSET MACON VILLAGES 2000

Region: Burgundy, France

Varietal: Chardonnay

Cost: about $12

You’ve read it before, here I go again. This is what Chardonnay should, can, and must taste like. There’s oak but noone is hitting you over the head with it, this means you actually are able to get a variety of flavors and nuances: Bosc pears, granny smith apple, fresh hay warmed by the sun. Well balanced with good acidity and just enough richness to drink on it’s own or pair with poached salmon in tarragon cream sauce if you must.

Hahn 1998 Cabernet Franc

Region: Monterey, Ca

Varietal: Cabernet Franc

Cost: about $12

One of my new favorites. Cab Franc is most often used to make reds on it’s own in the Loire valley in France and as a blending grape in Bordeaux. Very few manage to do well with the grape outside of those two regions, let alone affordably. Hahn Estates has done a fine job. Gorgeous depth of flavors on the palate and a great bouquet. Perfect to sip or with food. Went well with simple pasta and a rose cream and pancetta sauce.