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slow food Baltimore

April / May/June 2002  Daily Wines

Reds Whites

PROMESSA 2000 ROSSO SALENTO

Region: APULIA, ITALY

Grape Varietal: Negroamaro and Primitivo

Price: about $8

When looking for affordable reds from Italy consider looking south. Since both Tuscany and the Piedmont have become practically unattainable on a regular basis for us meek mortals, why not have some fun with wines from other regions? This robust red with tones of Aleppo pepper, rich earth and ripe fruit is perfect for spicy grilled Italian sausage and some seriously pungent arugula and aged Parmesan salad.

MEYER-FONNÉ 1999 TOKAY PINOT GRIS

Region: ALSACE, FRANCE

Varietal: Tokay Pinot Gris

Cost: $12

Beautiful wine from Alsace from a little known winery that is certain not to remain in obscurity for long. Hints of Asian pear, kumquat and meadows come forward with a rich but not viscous finish.

Great wine for Asian fare. Pork stir-fry with a hint of sweet and sour hot sauce was terrific with this.

Santa Rita 1999 Cabernet Sauvignon "Medalla Real"

Region: Maipo, Chile

Grape Cabernet Sauvignon

Price: about $12

Rich, lush and fairly complex wine. Reminds me of medium styled Bordeaux with more fleshy fruit to it. Smells like a bowl of mixed berries with background notes that remind one of French summer cooking – Tarragon, cassis and the like. A natural for burgers, especially good with grilled bison from Georgetown farms.

 

DEGRIORGIS Moscato D’Asti

Region: Piedmonte, Italy

Varietal: Moscato

Cost: $8

This is charming, light, uncomplicated wine. Perfect for making Saturday lawn work ever the more bearable. At only 5.5% alcohol, it makes a great, refreshing mimosa. Notes of really ripe white peaches, red berries buried in the background. Spring in a glass.

Fife Vineyards 2001 Redhead Rosé

Region: Redwood Valley,Mendocino, California

Varietal: Carigniane, Sangiovese and Syrah

Cost: $15

The jewel-like color of this wine is almost enough for me to love it just for that. Imagine pale pink rubies in a glass. The nose smells of pomegranate, Herbs de Provence and wild raspberries. The taste is a blend of those with some Watermelon slightly reminiscent of Jolly Rancher. A cheerful wine, perfect for this cool one day warm the next weather. Serve as a pre-dinner sipper or with Thai flavored crab cakes with peanut sauce. Hang in there, summer's coming!

 

Chateau de Chantegrive Graves 1999

Region: Graves, Bordeaux, France

Varietal: Sauvignon Blanc, Semillon and Muscadelle

Price: about $15

Gorgeous, crisp and wonderfully balanced white wine. Notes of kumquat and fresh meadows. Freshly mown hay comes to mind. On the palate it rolls around and leaves a pleasantly fading aftertaste – similar to the perfect ending to a favorite song. Refreshing and perfect for warm weather. Goat cheese bread pudding, green salad – dinner is served!

 

Goats du Rhône

Region: South Africa

Varietal: Pinotage, Cinsault, Grenache, Shiraz, Carigniane, Mourvedre

Cost: $8-9

Summer's coming and the living will be easier. This South African blend of Rhone varietals is fragrant, rich and easy sipping. Nothing cerebral to mull over, just a very tasty rich, BBQ friendly wine. Grilled bison skirt steak (trust me on this) roasted red pepper and grilled asparagus salad and you are so set. Perfect.

Cline Côtes D'Oakley Vin Blanc

Region: California

Varietal: Blend of several white grapes

Price: about $8

A summer favorite for two years straight and the present vintage is no exception. A creative blend of Marsanne, Roussanne, Viogner, Sauvignon Blanc, Gerwurtz, Semillion, Pinot Gris plus many more...It's got something for everybody. In anyone's else's hand this might taste like a winemakers over zealous attempts at an original mix but the good folks at Cline have made a very palatable and quaffable beverage. Crab and sweet potato quiche with a garden salad - perfect meal with this.

Louis Guntrum Scheurebe Kabinett

Region: Germany

Varietal: Scheurebe or "Scheu"

Cost: $9

What does one serve with grilled mahi mahi and mango - Thai chili salsa? Why this lovely pink spicy sipper of course.  Hints of blackcurrant, yuzu (Asian citrus), star anise and summer on on the nose and the palate. Charming, different and why not?

 

Casale del Grillo 2000 Frascati

Region: Castelli Romani, Italy

Grape Malvasia, Trebbiano

Price: about $7

This is light, fresh, easy sipping summer wine. Takes the edge off of a hot and humid day like nobody’s business.

Perfect with grilled octopus and vegetable insalata – mild cheese works beautifully with some fresh green olives as well.

Jest Red – North Coast American Blend

Region: North Coast California, USA

Varietal: A hodgepodge of red varietals

Price: about $10

Look no further for this summer’s perfect burger wine. Here is a bottling of some of the North Coast’s best winemakers leftovers, literally. Every year, it’s a little different. A barrel of Petit Verdot, some outstanding Pinot Noir, a racy Syrah and poof – Jest red. This year’s wine is luscious and reminiscent of a Rhone so there’s gotta be some groovy grapes. Enjoy in copious quantity Jest because.

Washington Hills Dry Chenin Blanc 2000

Region: Washington, US

Varietal: Chenin Blanc

Cost: $8

Crisp and clean with no caffeine... only kidding. A favorite from last year, this year's vintage is slightly greener but ever so pleasant The perfect quaffing wine. Honey, dried apricots, fresh white peach. Greek lemon potato salad and smoked salmon on rye.

DOMAINE DIOCHON 2000 MOULIN-À-VENT

Origin: BURGUNDY, FRANCE

Varietal: Gamay

Cost: $14

Wine that makes people wonder what all the "Nouveau Beaujolais" fuss is about. Many people don’t even think of Beaujolais beyond that grapey – most often God-awful stuff. Heads up, this is perfect picnic, summer, friends just stopped by, I feel like a glass of red wine. Reminds one of the first berries of summer, linden berries from Sweden and just enough mustiness to keep it interesting. Meant to be enjoyed in generous quantities.

Columbia Crest Columbia Valley Chardonnay

Origin: Washington, USA

Varietal: Chardonnay

Cost: $10

O.K. so normally I try to steer you away from Chardonnay produced in mass quantities, however, there are always exceptions. This is absolutely rich, luscious, screaming for lobster rolls kinda wine. Notes of cream, straw, vanilla and all that good stuff one associates with hefty Chardonnay. A word of caution, only serve with creamy sauces, drawn butter and seafood or Mango grilled chicken that’s been marinated in the stuff. Anything else won’t hold up.